Although we were still high in the air, I was already enchanted by the magic of the South Seas unfolding beneath me. Looking at Tahiti, which rises from the Pacific with a lush green landscape scattered with turquoise lagoons, you feel a little closer to paradise.
The Air Tahiti Nui aeroplane touched down gently, having brought me from Paris via Los Angeles in the most pleasant and comfortable way to the largest of the French Polynesian Society Islands. I started my next adventure in the archipelagos of the Leeward and Windward Islands where I wanted to get closer to the myth of Tahiti. My first impressions were of the rich diversity of the nature with steep peaks, rugged rocky ridges, high waterfalls and lush tropical flora and fauna. The incredible blue of the lagoons with large coral reefs, pristine beaches and crystal-clear water attract travellers from around the world. The diving areas of the French Polynesian archipelagos are rightly considered to be among the most fascinating in the world. Although the difficult economic situation in recent years has left its mark on Tahiti's high-class hotels – the luxurious 5-star hotels and members of the prestigious hotel groups are not fully convincing – the archipelago at the other end of the world impresses with the wealth of sights and experiences on offer. The originality, diversity, culture and especially the open, hospitable inhabitants make Tahiti a pearl in the vast expanse of the South Pacific.
Otea, Aparima, Hivinau, Pa'o'a – just the exotic sound of these names gives you a feel for the foreign culture. These are traditional dances that are as much a part of Tahiti as the ornate floral wreaths worn in the hair. Despite being outlawed as un-Christian during the colonisation, the dances survived and represent an integral part of the local culture with their symbolic gestures, expressiveness and ornate costumes. Visiting a traditional dance with the rhythm of the drums, guitars and ukuleles is not to be missed. The vivid Maori art of tattooing is also a central part of the culture of French Polynesia. The ornate decorations have a long history and a deep meaning. They are a record of their bearer's life, they tell their stories and preserve their memories. The geometric patterns, plant or animal motifs are drawn on the back, shoulders, arms, legs or applied to the entire body depending on the region. They are not only aesthetic body jewellery, but also an expression of one's identity and they are shown here with pride. Increasingly, tourists are taking Tahitian tattoo art home with them. I decided on some other souvenirs.
It is no coincidence that I travelled here in October. French Polynesia's ultimate sporting event takes place during this month: the three-day Hawaiki Nui Va'a canoe marathon is probably the toughest boat race in the world and the Formula 1 of the Pacific. Three stages and a total of 124.5 km have to be mastered by the canoeists paddling in six-person teams from Huahine to Raiatea and Tahaa to the finish line in Bora Bora. For them, it's about power and speed and especially about prestige. On the eve of the first stage, I allow myself to get caught up in the atmosphere of this popular festival in which islanders, sponsors and sports enthusiasts from around the world congregate. I met the Moux family, one of the most important and successful families in the area of petroleum and telecommunications in the Pacific. They immediately gave me the kits of both of their teams and I was delighted to be invited onto their yacht. At the start of the race, 100 teams gather with their outrigger canoes, the Va'as, off the island of Huahine. Ever more luxury yachts, motorboats and catamarans gather around them to witness the spectacular event up close. The starter's gun breaks the concentrated silence and there is an explosion of passion – the crowd goes wild, cheering on and rooting for the canoeists who plunge their paddles into the waves. Glistening sun, rain and rough seas with 6-metre waves makes the Hawaiki Nui Va'a truly exciting and demand peak performance from the participants.
Kostbarkeiten aus dem Meer In nature, only about one in 15,000 oysters produces a pearl. With experience and expertise in implantation, Robert Wan has achieved rates of 700 pearls for every 1,000 of his oysters. Yet nature follows its own rules: only 20 of them achieve the extraordinary quality and size necessary to supply internationally renowned jewellers with the basis for the most exclusive and expensive jewellery. A single 45 cm necklace of the highest quality with evenly sized 14 mm Tahitian pearls can easily require a yield of 100,000 pearls. That Robert Wan loves what he does despite the difficulty became clear in a conversation with him and can be seen in his way of working. The fact that his Tahitian pearls are in a league of their own is the result of a production method that relies on balance and a respectful, harmonious relationship with nature. The purity of the lagoons, the cleanliness of the water, the inviolability of the atoll – all of this is a labour of love for Robert Wan. He constantly invests in observation and research teams to ensure the balance of an intact underwater world on his breeding farms. Inside the successful businessman Robert Wan is above all a person who loves nature and very gently brings its wonderful treasures to light.
For me it was time to say goodbye. I set out on my 30-hour flight back home from the end of the world with great and unique impressions of the myth of Tahiti in my suitcase.
