South Africa – don’t those two words alone already sound like a promise? Inevitably, it evokes beautiful pictures of vast steppes and wild animals, of proud Zulu warriors and graceful women carrying water, diamond mines, and contemporary witnesses of the colonial era. The southern tip of the black continent, where two oceans meet, promises pure fascination, contrasting diversity and unforgettable impressions. I set off to experience the facets of this extraordinary country first hand. The timing of my trip in October couldn’t be better: it is spring in South Africa. My adventure begins.
The open wood fire is crackling, throwing sparks into the African night sky. It is an indescribable feeling to sit here in the wilderness of the Kruger National Park, to listen to the quiet and the exotic calls of the wild animals. Thanks to a private concession, this part of the nature reserve, more than 13,000 hectares of protected area, is reserved solely for guests of the Singita Lodge. This doesn’t guarantee the quality of just the lodge itself, but also of the tours through the park. After arriving in Johannesburg and spending one night in the fantastic Singita Sweni Lodge, I quickly got into the swing of my safari adventure. The lodge is nestled up to the edge of the Sweni River and almost merges with the surrounding landscape of woods. Here, contemporary design meets authentic African flair: Local wood, stone, leather, hand-made accessories and colourful printed fabrics create a special atmosphere in the modern rooms that are glazed almost entirely throughout. My next station as well, one of the most spacious villas in the Lebombo Lodge just 400 metres from Singita, is without doubt among the finest accommodation you will find here. On the slopes of the N’wantesi River, you pretty much get front row seats to see the Big Five in the wild and up close.
Elephants, zebras, giraffes, hippos, leopards, lions, antelopes,... the list of animals you may experience in the Kruger National Park in the wild is incredible. Alongside the classic Jeep Safari, which Singita offers as one of many other activities – including mountain biking, archery or stargazing – I can really recommend the wildlife walk with the experienced guides from the lodge. They are experts in their field and, as experienced trackers, they ensure you will get close encounters with numerous animals. The early start at sunrise will be rewarded multiple times over, and after you’ve got back you can retreat into the peace of your villa, immerse yourself in the pool, or relax with a soothing spa treatment. Afterwards it is worth going for a stroll through the fine boutiques at the hotel, where you can buy fine art pieces, wood carvings, hand-made jewellery and other beautiful things. By now, it is the evening. Of course, at a high-class host like Singita, you can rightly expect a culinary feast. The wine cellar holds exquisite treasures including limited editions and a first-class selection of local and international wine. The kitchen also sparkles with top quality: The innovative menus combine skilled African specialities with international recipes – an indulgence.
The signal for departure sounds. Slowly, the 'Pride of Africa' starts to move, setting off on its three-day journey from Pretoria to Cape Town. The luxury train of Rovos Rail, a company steeped in tradition, opens up a totally unique way to discover South Africa. Life on the train is about exclusivity and winding down. My elegant deluxe cabin is an invitation to relax, while landscapes and towns roll past the panoramic window. As a single passenger, I get to enjoy the spacious seating capacity and the comfort – despite the somewhat restless nights accompanied by the sounds and movements of the train. The passengers – guests from all over the world – meet up at meal times in the dining car. The delicacies the kitchen manages to create in very limited space are really remarkable and a wonderful all-inclusive indulgence. Along the 1,600 km long route, we get wonderful impressions of the country: the Highveld plains, the karoo semi-desert, spectacular mountain ranges, a lake with ten thousand pink flamingos and picturesque wine regions. You immediately get the sense of Africa from the open observation car – and at the stops: The modern visitor centre at the Kimberly Mine, for example, lets me dive completely into the exciting contemporary history of diamond mining. You can walk into the museum’s strong room and marvel at some stunning pieces.
Whoever, like me, loves fine wine, cannot avoid a visit to Stellenbosch. The second oldest town in South Africa, it is one of the most important wine-growing areas in the country. I have the honour and pleasure of visiting the Delaire Graff Estate vineyard. It lies a little outside of the town, on a hill, embedded in vineyards and forests, surrounded by majestic mountains. The tree-lined driveway to the estate, in full blossom, makes me look eagerly forward to my stay in this winery, which belongs to the famous Graff Diamonds Holding. Wonderful parking facilities, exquisite art and sophisticated hospitality – all perfectly combined. After the warm welcome in the artistically designed foyer of the main house, I get one of the ten villas on the estate where wonderful generosity and an amazing panoramic view out over the valley await. The wine lounge is the right place to taste the estate’s portfolio and discover your favourites. There are two restaurants to choose from for the evening meal. Both offer delicious food – the Delaire Graff Restaurant and the Indochine, which will inspire you with its fusion of Asian and South African creations – the best I have had on this trip. The Delaire Graff Estate likes to describe itself as the most beautiful winery in Stellenbosch. I can only confirm this.
I am deeply touched. The dynamic and strength that stems from the towering sculptures is palpable. At the same time, the living works of art – dark, powerfully structured bronze sculptures – fit harmoniously into the natural landscape that envelopes them. The artist Dylan Lewis himself leads me through the 'Dylan Lewis Sculpture Park'. The works, representations of people and animals, are closely linked with his homeland of South Africa and highlight striking, inspiring highlights in the manicured garden landscape. Dylan Lewis, who has his studio here, has long established himself on the international art scene with his distinctive creations. Born into a family of artists – his father a sculptor, his mother and grandmother painters – he grew familiar with creative processes early on. The French impressionists influenced him, he reveals, and explains how they started him working outdoors. The organic forms and landscapes with their reliefs and surfaces, the exciting textures and contrasts in Africa’s intensive light paved the way for the artist to make three-dimensional sculptures. With his abstract representation of wildlife, he captures vastly more than the reflection of nature. It is tangible, untamed wildness. Every sculpture is a play that tells a story. Wonderful.
I still remain loyal to the winelands: In the Franschhoek valley, so rich in tradition, the Royal Portfolio chain runs the pre-eminent hotel, La Residence. Surrounded by vineyards, it is a luxurious oasis of peace, in which pleasure takes centre stage. The attention to detail that the owner and interior designer Liz Biden has personally and uniquely bestowed on all the hotels of The Royal Portfolio can be felt in my suite, too. With selected interior, themes and intensive colours, and with generosity and elegance, the La Residence gives a stylish yet cosy welcome. The fine wine on offer and the culinary level of the restaurant are without doubt one of the reasons why Franschhoek has gained a reputation as South Africa’s secret capital of gastronomy. The journey continues: We drive to the coast over mountain passes, past Theewaterskloof Dam, cornfields and blossoming apple orchards. In Hermanus, another hotel from The Royal Portfolio awaits. Towering loftily at the edge of the cliffs is Birkenhead House. From the balcony of my room I can see whales, which splash about here at this time of year. And they can still be seen from a guarded walk leading from the hotel through the adjoining natural reserve directly into the town centre, where there are numerous shops and restaurants. That is South Africa too; and an unforgettable memory it is.
When an exciting metropolis, an old industrial building and visionary businessman come together, you can expect an exceptional outcome. The Silo in Cape Town is one such exceptional project: The former silo building is setting new standards in South Africa’s top hotel business and has become a distinctive landmark in the city. That is on the one hand due to the architecture, which allows people to experience the highest level of industrial art. The original barrel-vault of the grain silo and the characteristic cement skeleton of the high building were retained and combined in a unique way with modern design – like the curved window façades with their geometric steel supports. On the other hand, it is the overwhelming aura inside that makes The Silo so special, so different. For here they have managed to combine lightness with grand gestures and fill the vast space with luxurious cosiness. The rawness and the power of the industrial era evolves together with a sophisticated interior, carefully selected accessories, lights and colours to make a unique atmosphere. Between Table Mountain and the Atlantic, The Silo is part of the famous Victoria & Alfred Waterfront – a new magnet that will quickly have you in raptures. Would you like to get to know this and other exclusive hotels from The Royal Portfolio? Then 'The Royal Itinerary' package is made for you.
Enjoy a pleasant 25 degrees Celsius – which prevails in the sunny but windy Cape Town in mid-October – on the rooftop area at The Silo. Spread over two levels, it has an open lounge bar, pool and sun deck. The panoramic view out to the Table Mountain and Lion’s Head, to the city centre and the ocean is simply magnificent. My deluxe suite is also on two floors. You can recognise the handwriting of the owner, Liz Biden, who skilfully orchestrated every composition and every detail in this hotel, too – and yet preserved its uniqueness. On the lower level the living area features modern elegance that spans a charming spectrum from the traditional to modern with artistic antiques and design objects. The specialities in the very well equipped house bar are first class, and a delightful part of the all-inclusive offer. On the upper level unfolds a spacious sleeping quarters with bathroom and dressing room in light blue tones. The luxurious ambience, which arises not least through the convex window façades over both levels and the superb view, invites you to linger – if only there wasn’t so much more to discover: the art is not just in the rooms and suites of The Silo, or in the installations of the glassed-in towers of the Silo – for so many, a photo scene that takes the breath away. One part of the building houses the famous Zeitz MOCAA.
The Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art of Africa – Zeitz MOCAA for short – is the biggest museum of contemporary African modern art in the world. This ambitious museum was realised and opened at the end of September this year with the support of the German manager and co-founder Jochen Zeitz, who exhibits his extensive collection there. The location within the spectacular building architecture of The Silo is as special as the works exhibited there are fascinating: unusual staging, exciting installations, innovative photographs, ambitious video art, and newly interpreted paintings. The Zeitz MOCAA offers modern art at its best – and it is inspired by African flair throughout. If you would like to know what particularly impressed me on my tour around the museum, then that question is not easy to answer. The bright playfulness of the South African artist Athi-Patra Ruga for sure, or the costumes and body shapes by Nandipha Mntambo, an artist from Swaziland. The futuristic portraits by the Kenyan Cyrus Kabiru or the pictures by the Nigerian Jeremiah Quarshie. They and many others fill the space with their innovative works and create an unexpected buzz. So, in summary: If you were in Cape Town and did not pay a visit to this prominent cultural site, you would be losing something never to be found again.
More than any other venture, the Silo stands as a cosmopolitan, international meeting point for Cape Town’s step into the future. The lively, popular Waterfront is an attractive addition to the established luxury hotel industry, which is doubtless spearheaded by the elegant Cape Grace. The classically elegant Grand Hotel is a well-known part of the Waterfront silhouette thanks to its stand-alone location on the marina. Built on the palm-lined quay and surrounded by water, it not only stands out because of its location but also because of its exclusive presence, which has always made it the destination for famous guests and many state dignitaries. 'A little more handcrafted' is the motto of the hotel – and you can find this replicated everywhere in the hotel. All of the high-quality features come exclusively from South African manufacturers. Furniture, accessories and decorations, including 300 original artefacts, were selected and placed by hand. Details and materials characterise a unique and unmistakeable ambience in the rooms. After relaxing at the pool deck, which resembles the bow of a ship, I allow myself to use the hotel’s luxurious spa area. After an aperitif at the Whisky Bar, I am spoiled by the countless courses from the delicious evening menus. What can I say? A trip like this one is, in the truest sense, an extraordinary experience.
