When I get an invitation from Andrea Zanolari, I always know I’m in for a great time. This time, I am doubly delighted: not only will I be sampling the finest delicacies of the Valtellina; I will also be driving from Munich to Val Poschiavo in Switzerland for the first time to visit Brusio and the home of the Zanolaris, whose Plozza wines are among the most delicious in the world. The drive itself promises to be a whole new experience: I will be driving there in a Wraith, one of the newer models in the Rolls-Royce fleet. Elegance, luxury and a pleasurable driving experience are a given, but I have not yet experienced the dynamism with which the Wraith outstrips previous benchmarks, making it the sportiest Rolls-Royce of all time.
The expression on my face clearly shows how enjoyable this car is to drive. The incredible agility of the impressive Wraith, its manoeuvrability and the way it tackles the curves on mountain passes create an intoxicating driving sensation. Even those who are completely at home with luxury cars will be amazed by the features of this Rolls-Royce. Meanwhile, Andrea Zanolari is in the seat next to mine as we aim for the Panificio Plozza di F.lli Della Pona. This bakery, steeped in tradition in the Italian town of Tirano, is known for its Valtellina rye bread (pane di segale), which we will be picking up, with its aroma of rye flour, still warm from the oven.
As far as authentic delicacies from the Valtellina go, there is no overlooking Bitto, the alpine cheese that is produced from July to September in the high altitudes above Morbegno at between 1,500 and 2,000 metres and is one of the most typical varieties of the region. It owes its spicy flavour to the special mix of cow’s and goat’s milk, which is determined by daily production. This is what the Signori Ciapponi tell me as they initiate me into the secrets of producing this famous seasonal cheese. Their Alimentari offers Bitto at every level of maturity: the young straw-coloured variety, which is excellent with polenta or pasta such as thick pizzoccheri; the more aged variety, which ranges from mild to strong in its depth of flavour; and the powerful, intense 'mature' variety, whose wheels must be stored, turned and looked after patiently for ten years. It is with pleasure that I sample the different vintages, including the ten-year-old cheese that is so famous among connoisseurs. What does it taste like? Perhaps a little like Parmesan, but more intense and with a spicier flavour. I reluctantly leave the Ciapponis’ shop, so wholeheartedly dedicated to its tradition that time seems to stand still there. The variety of Bittos we have purchased cheers us up a little say our goodbyes.
With our delicious cargo packed away in the car, we continue on our way. Anybody visiting the Valtellina also needs to sample some real bresaola, the air-dried salted beef that originally comes from this region. Andrea Zanolari shows me the way to the Macelleria Nobili Arnaldo, which is famous for this fine delicacy. I am curious, and would like to find out more about the production of bresaola. The Nobili family business relies on traditional processes: as with Bündnerfleisch in Switzerland, only raw, cured beef from the leg is processed by leaving it to air-dry in nets for several months. There are, I learn, strict requirements for the original bresaola: only the highest-quality beef can be used. The requirements are also very discerning when it comes to consistency and flavour: the meat must develop a delicately spiced flavour and melt gently on the tongue. We taste it, and conclude: 'Bravissimo!' Of course we take this delicacy with us on our trip too. Andrea and I are in agreement: whether we are talking about cars or food, it is always quality and passion that make that crucial difference. The more of both there is, the better the result. This brings us to the subject of wine, as those are the very ingredients that make Plozza wines so extraordinary. There are three wines in the Plozza Wine Group’s selection that really stand out: the spectacular 24 K, whose volume and fine balance make each sip a delight; the Plozza which is aged twice in a new barrique, and offers a wealth of aromas; and the Numero Uno with its bouquet of plums, cloves and pepper. They are only produced in especially good years, and they show the quality that can come from the Mediterranean climate, the sunny southern slopes and the best Nebbiolo grapes.
The interesting discussions we had while enjoying the Valtellina’s delicacies made the time seem to fly by. The pleasant feeling of friendship and good will accompanies me as I steer the Rolls-Royce Wraith back towards home. The silence and power that this car radiates, seemingly by its very nature, make the drive as pleasant as the perfectly formed luxury in the interior – the finest handcrafted leather, brushed stainless steel and perfectly coordinated details. This presentation, together with the Wraith’s unexpected dynamism, serves to fascinate and to confirm that, once again, Rolls-Royce has made a statement.
The interesting discussions we had while enjoying the Valtellina’s delicacies made the time seem to fly by. The pleasant feeling of friendship and good will accompanies me as I steer the Rolls-Royce Wraith back towards home. The silence and power that this car radiates, seemingly by its very nature, make the drive as pleasant as the perfectly formed luxury in the interior – the finest handcrafted leather, brushed stainless steel and perfectly coordinated details. This presentation, together with the Wraith’s unexpected dynamism, serves to fascinate and to confirm that, once again, Rolls-Royce has made a statement.
ANDREA ZANOLARI
He loves fast cars, he is a passionate skier and he has a flair for design, but more than that, Andrea Zanolari stands out for his clear sense of family. As a father, he lives with his wife and two children in Poschiavo and regularly commutes between the Plozza headquarters in Brusio, the vineyards in the Valtellina and the production centre in Tirano. As managing director of the Plozza Wine Group, he is continuing the traditional family business and successfully expanding the company’s sophisticated wine culture. In matters of fine product and packaging design, he is always happy to provide his input – as in the case of the carefully forged 24-carat golden label on the elegant 24 K magnum.
PLOZZA VINI
The name is synonymous with quality wines from the Valtellina and fine sparkling wines from Franciacorta, which measure up well even against champagne. The head office of Plozza Vini is in Brusio in Switzerland. The fine wines themselves are produced in the Italian town of Tirano, and presented in the exclusive showroom there. More than 400,000 bottles are filled and sold each year, including through the Plozza Wine Group’s well known trading houses in the Canton of Graubünden.
ROLLS-ROYCE WRAITH
The name itself sounds mysterious, and it is the perfect complement to prestigious models like the Ghost and the Phantom. The Wraith prides itself on its power and dynamism: it is Rolls-Royce’s sportiest model to date. For starters, the ingenious manual transmission is a fascinating feature: the satellite transmission is linked to GPS data, so that it automatically selects the most appropriate gear for the terrain from the eight available. The Wraith is particularly impressive on twisty mountain roads, with its matchless manoeuvrability and immediate reactions to changes in road conditions. However, its designers have not compromised on its characteristically elegant lines and fine crafting.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS ROLLS-ROYCE WRAITH
Dimensions Vehicle length: 5269 mm I Vehicle width: 1947 mm I Vehicle height: 1507 mm I Wheelbase: 3112 mm I Turning circle: 12.7 m I Boot Volume (DIN): 470 ltr Weight Unladen Weight (DIN): 2360 kg Engine Engine/cylinders/valves: V/12/48 I Power output @ engine speed: 624 bhp / 632 PS / 465 kw@5.600 rpm I Max torque @ engine speed: 800 Nm / lb ft @ 1.500-5.500 rpm I Fuel type: Super unleaded Performance Top speed: 250 km/h / 155 mph (governed) I Acceleration 0-100 km/h: 4.6 sec