Every journey offers something new, something unexpected. My destination in the south of France is no exception. I’m meeting Gérard Bertrand at one of his famous wineries to learn about his latest innovation. He welcomes me to Château L’Hospitalet, nestled in sunny vineyards and Mediterranean hills overlooking Narbonne’s Mediterranean coast. Regarding the aforementioned innovation: one imagines a spectacular grape variety, perhaps, or an unknown blend that this biodynamic winemaker has developed. But it’s much more than that; a unique concept that is closely related to its stated philosophy: the Moon Room.
Château L’Hospitalet is a premium 5-star hotel and a top address for sophisticated gourmets and wine tourists. Excellent food, diverse wines produced in-house and a sea view all promise a delightful time-out with typical southern French joie-de-vivre. In addition, the outstandingly managed spa – an extra shout-out goes to the specially developed massage techniques of its manager Valérie – and the attached exclusive beach club make the resort the perfect holiday destination. As one of a total of 11 wineries run by Gérard Bertrand and employing around 400 people, the headquarters clearly represent the values behind the group: An understanding of viticulture as a holistic process that can only achieve excellence in harmony with nature. An understanding of itself as merely a small part of the universe and respect for its balance. A credo with clear consequences: Bertrand deploys exclusively biodynamic cultivation methods without chemical agents, promotes biodiversity and microorganisms, oriented on the stellar calendar. This philosophy is taken to the next level with the Moon Room: Separated from the restaurant rooms, you enter a unique mystical world. A large circular table is placed in the centre – the fixed star of this solar system. Mysterious darkness, gradually illuminated by the stars in the sky of space. A complete new sensory experience to the rhythm of the stars, created from 'vertical' cuisine with wonderful flavours and textures, hand-selected wines from the in-house enoteca, colour-coordinated lighting and accompanying music. The aspects behind the concept of vertical cuisine are also coordinated to the last detail. For example, a menu structure in harmony with the seasons, a refinement of recipes with biodynamic plants or partnerships with top regional producers who demonstrably share the sustainable philosophy reflected at Gérard Bertrand.
'In wine-growing, organic farming will become standard practice over the next twenty years. The Consumers will want to drink more personalized products, guaranteeing traceability, character and flavor.'
Gérard Bertrand
Formerly an active professional athlete; now a successful entrepreneur, host, book author and passionate highly decorated winemaker: Gérard Bertrand combines many talents. His biodynamic wines regularly receive awards, and he himself was recently named 'Master Winemaker of the Year 2023'.
'To be a wine grower is to regard nature with humility and respect. To be an entrepreneur is to cultivate optimism, pass on know-how and values, and adapt to an changing world.'
The expertise of biodynamics becomes the foundation of the innovative culinary approach that is now being realised in the Moon Room. The vertical seven-course menu, created by chef Laurent Chabert and sommelier Pierre-Alexis Mengual, confirms: every ingredient, every detail – from preparation to plating-up – and the accompanying wines served, are in perfect harmony; everything follows the rhythm of nature and the path of the stars. Each course is an enjoyable, yet surprisingly light revelation; you won’t find heavy butter and cream sauces here. If I were forced to name a favourite among the courses, then perhaps Venus would be the winner: A superb Clos du Temple rosé with the spicy-nutty sea bass seems unsurpassable. If it were not for Mars with a filet of Aubrac beef that melts in the mouth with delicate spiciness, harmoniously accompanied by a charismatic Pinot Noir 2013... The final course and the shining of all stars bring the journey full circle. Yes, the Moon Room offers an unprecedented, incredibly balanced and absolutely unique experience. For new stellar moments of sheer gourmet delight.
MOON ROOM Menu
Donnerstag, 30. März 2023, zunehmender Halbmond
Gemüsebrühe aromatisiert mit Brennnessel, Kamille, Schafgarbe und Ringblume
MOND
Cigalus Blanc 2019 Magnum IGP Aude Hauterive
Austern von Mas Soula Nr. 1 im Lauchmantel, zartes Lauchweiss, Haselnüsse, Kartoffelschaum, Brühe mit Toastbrot, Dillöl, Sturia Primeur Kaviar
MERKUR
Aigle Impérial 2015
Glasiertes Salatherz, Cremesuppe mit Brunnenkresse, Perlgraupen-Koji, Céleyran-Rübe
VENUS
Clos du Temple 2020 AOP Languedoc Cabrières
Seebarsch von Port La Nouvelle Ikejime, in Salz gegarte Rote Bete, Pistaziencoulis, Orangenwürze und Kaviar Sturia Classic Ossietra
SONNE
Villa Soleilla 2021 Vin de France
Rückenfilet von der Zahnbrasse aus dem Mittelmeer, in rotem Mais-Miso mariniert und dann bei niedriger Temperatur gegart, Schwarzwurzelblättchen, Topinambur natur, Bottarga und Zitronatzitrone in Transparenz
MARS
Aigle Royal Pinot Noir 2013, Magnum IGP Haute Vallée de l'Aude
Filet vom Aubrac-Rind aus eigener Reifung, Pak Choi in Ingwer gebraten, Knoblauch reduzierter Bratenjus mit Chili-Öl verfeinert
JUPITER
La Forge 2007 Magnum AOP Corbières-Boutenac
Lamm «El Xai», Einkorn-Risotto, Harissa, Broussecreme mit Kräutern, würziger Bratenjus
SATURN
Legend Vintage 1977 AOP Rivesaltes
Soufflé Valrhona-Schokolade Guanaja 70 %, Birnenherz mit Whisky der Destillerie Castan, Eis mit gegrillter Madagaskar-Vanille
